October 2011 Med Cruise Trip Report

Cruising with Mary
7 NIGHT MEDITERRANEAN CRUISE TRIP REPORT
October 2 – October 9, 2011
ROYAL CARIBBEAN - NAVIGATOR OF THE SEAS
PREPARED BY MARY ENGRAM, TRAVEL CONSULTANT


This review is going to be long, but I hope not boring. I had a group of 10 people who had never sailed the Med before and this cruise did not disappoint. Six of the 10 live in California, 2 in Illinois, and the other 2 live in Texas. I spent almost 6 months researching the various ports of call and arranging for private drivers for our excursions etc, and the planning really paid off.

My goal is to always to show my clients the unexpected, expose them to authentic local experiences and deliver an unforgettable and memorable experience they simply could not have on their own or through the cruise line big bus shore excursions. At this end you this report, you can be the judge as to whether or not I succeeded. So now sit back, relax, and enjoy.

DAY 1: EMBARKATION AND LIFE ONBOARD
My group all met up at the Rome Airport and after a quick greeting they all headed off for a pre-cruise tour of Rome with drop-off at the airport while I headed to the pier to verify dining time and table location and to check in with the onboard group coordinator, future cruise consultant. Let’s just say it was a case of “hurry up and wait”. I should have known 10 am was too early as the counter staff had not even arrived yet. But at least there was flavored water and cookies available to pass away the time until we were ready to board.

The first thing I found out was that our itinerary had been changed due to the scheduled strikes in Greece. Not a problem as they just switched the order of the ports so nothing was missing. I sent off a quick email to our private tour operators and confirmed that they could accommodate the change in schedule so we were all set to go.

After taking care of business and changing out dining table to a large table next to the window, it was time for lunch in the Windjammer. Standard fare but it was good. But alas, rooms were not ready until 1 pm so it was an effort not to fall asleep in a lounge chair by the pool after such a long flight.

LIFT ONBOARD
Balcony Cabins - Everyone in our group had a balcony cabin and all were tastefully decorated in pleasing tones with lightwoods and art on the walls. Each cabin was furnished with a convertible, queen-to-twin bed; flat screen television offering interactive services like room service, pay-per-view, and numerous channels. RCTV features everything from news and sports channels to a ship cam, which shows the action inside the ship, and a "Retro TV" channel, which features classic sitcoms.

Cabins had mini-fridges that are stocked with soft drinks and juices, but beware there is a charge for anything you consume so if you want to use the refrigerator, ask your room steward to remove the contents so you won’t be charged. Some of the group indicated that they did not have an ice bucket, so make sure to ask your room steward if one is not provided.

Bathrooms are basic and only suites have tubs. The showers, however, have those half-round sliding doors, instead of the clingy shower curtains. Soap and shampoo are provided and hair dryers are located in the vanities.

The Suites - Although everyone in the group had a balcony cabin, I always like my group to see other cabin categories. So this trip was a viewing of the Jr Suite 1346 and Grand Suite 1256. Both were located on the starboard side of the ship and what can I say, everyone loved the suites. The furniture and fixtures were in great shape, there were multiple electrical outlets, tons of storage, and the locations were was great.

The Grand Suite was equipped with a Samsung flat screen TV, Sony audio components, and Bose speakers, 3 large closets, tons of drawer and storage space, a queen size bed, and a sofa bed, with a curtain that separated the living area from the sleeping area. The bathroom had 2 large sinks, a tub with a sitting area, and additional storage space in the cabinets and behind the mirrors. The bathroom was stocked with premium soaps and shampoo.

The Jr Suite was equipped with a Samsung flat screen TV, a large walk-in closet, lots of drawer and storage space, a queen size bed, lounge chair with ottoman, the love seat. The bathroom was large with a separate tub and granite countertops. Jr. Suite amenities included double cruise points, tea and coffee service en-suite, terry bathrobes for use on board, upgraded bathroom amenities, walk-In closet, a bathtub NOT a shower, suite check-in line @ embarkation, and silver SeaPass® card for recognition.

Navigator of the Seas Dining - The three-story main dining room -- with each level named after famous ballets: Swan Lake, Coppelia and The Nutcracker -- has a color scheme in burgundy and gold, a grand staircase and a bronze sculpture of a dancer. Our group had 6 pm dining on deck 4 in the Coppelia Dining Room. Our table was right next to the window in a great location. Ekhron, from Turkey, was our waiter and he was wonderful. He was very attentive, entertaining, and informative. After the first night, he found out that a member of the group was allergic to nuts and seeds and he made sure her meals were special ordered. We could not have asked for a better waiter. (NOTE: I have to admit that I was not aware of her allergy so was thankful that RCL’s wait staff was able to accommodate her on such short notice. So if you have any food allergies, and I forget to ask you, please make sure to let me know so that I can inform the ship’s chef of your preferences). Well done RCL!

As this was the first night together, I am always a little worried that people who don’t know each other and are meeting for the first time, might not “click”. But there was nothing to worry about with this group. From the first meeting, there was not nothing but laughter and fun had by all.

DAY 2: MESSINA (SICILY), ITALY
We decided that everyone on the private tours would meet up at the Café Promenade which is a ideal location because you can grab a cup of coffee and a bit to eat before we head out. Lots of space and everyone knows where it is. Our private tour included a visit to Taormina, Castelmola, and Messina. Mario, our private guide met us promptly in a nice clean air conditioned mini-van and Mario was our guide.

Comfortably in the mini-van, we departed the pier for the drive along the coastal road en route to Taormina, one of the Mediterranean's most complete medieval towns. Enroute, Mario gave us a running commentary of the area and pointed out such locations are the village where the movie “Godfather” was filmed and a bit of history about Sicily.

On our way up the hill, I noticed parking lots with shuttle buses so asked Mario about it. He smiled and said we are in luck because Taormina has restrictions on the size vehicles able to enter the village. The shuttles were to transfers people from the 50 passenger buses used by the cruise line to a parking lot at the foot of the village where passengers walk up to the main square. Another reason why I felt the services of a private guide and vehicle was so beneficial to my clients.

Perched on the side of a hill overlooking the sea, Taormina has a delightful character. The buildings in the town center are unchanged and have retained their picturesque character, many with window boxes overflowing with brightly-colored flowers, while others are used as shops. Mario dropped us off at the entrance to the village and we had 1 ½ hour to explore the many shops and cafes that line Corso Unberto, Taormina’s main street.

As we strolled along, we also saw the 15th-century Palazzo Corvaia. This building, indicative of the architectural style of the period, is adorned with classic double windows. Although none of us went inside, we did see the impressive Greek Theater in the distance. This Roman-style theater was reconstructed in the 2nd century AD. It is in excellent condition, and has marvelous acoustics that are still appreciated in contemporary performances of classical plays.

After our walk, we headed for lunch in Castelmola, a little village perched about 4000 feet above Taormina. It was very cute and quaint and not something that the ship’s tour visits. We had the town almost to ourselves. But the highlight of our visit was lunch at Gallo Cedrone, a family owned restaurant with panoramic views of Mt Etna., although the clouds blocked on view on the day we visited.

Well what fun this restaurant was!! Ricardo, the chef and who speaks excellent English, his sister and Mama Maria really make you feel part of the family, lavishing you with amazing home cooked food, great company, lovely drinks and lots of laughs. Before we even settled in our chairs, a plate of delicious Brochette topped with tomatoes was on our table. One word of warning, the servings are huge! We were so happy that Mario stepped in and advised us to share the meal because there was more than enough for everyone.

A special note is that Mario called ahead and told them one of the members were allergic to nuts and seeds and they accommodated her dietary restriction without a problem. And I should mention that the food was excellent and a fantastic value. I could tell you about the “ice” incident, but that is a whole other trip report and this one is already way too long.

Mama and the family made us feel welcome and treated us as if we were a member of the family. We departed with a “ciao ciao”, which is the greeting used for friends, hugs and kisses and a smile on our faces. I am sure this is a memory which will be retold for years to come.

After a dessert of the most wonderful cannolis I have ever eaten, Sister Irene came around and poured us all glasses of Vino Di Mandorla, a wonderful local almond dessert wine that is only produced in the region. She pour them in shot glasses so we all lifted our glasses and threw them back. Little did we know that we did it all wrong and the wine is to be sipped not gulped. Amidst rounds of laughter Mama Maria gave us another chance, poured another round and stood in attendance to make sure we did it right this time. And yes I did have to bring a small bottle home as a souvenir.

After lunch Mario took us on a tour of the village town square and quaint little shops (ceramics and embroidery) whose winding streets center around the piazza. We also stopped at this little bar called the Turrisi Bar where everything was shaped like a phallic. And I mean everything from the door handles to the sink faucet! As a matter of fact, none of us could really see it until Mario told us to look at the menu on the table. At that point everything became perfectly clear. It was quite entertaining for us prudish Americans but Mario was quick to point out that the history of the bar was based on artistic freedom and not the bar’s theme.

We then headed back to Messina. After a long day and a great meal, most of the group caught a little nap in the mini-van. We toured the city and Mario took us to the top of the hill overlooking the city and explained to us the legend of the Virgin Mary before he took us to the city center.

The Madonna della Lettura, Patron Saint of Messina, stands atop a spire at the sea entrance to the harbor at Messina, Sicily. Mario explained that according to popular legend, the Virgin Mary presented a letter to Messina residents who visited her in Palestine in 42 AD, congratulating the city on their Christian conversion. Although I can not confirm if this is fact or fiction, but after hearing this fascinating story I did a little research on the internet and found the following:

Letter from the Blessed Mother
(A letter written by the Blessed Virgin Mary to the City of Messina where St. Paul, the Apostle preached the Gospel, which has been preserved in the Reliquary of the great altar.)

"I, Mary Virgin, servant of God, very humble Mother of Jesus Christ, Son of God, the Almighty and Eternal, to all who are in Messina, health and benediction in our Lord. You have learned by the ambassadors who have been sent to you. You received the Gospel and you acknowledged that the Son of God has become man, and has suffered the passion and death for the salvation of the world, and that He is Christ and also the true Messiah. I beseech you to persevere, promising to you, and all your posterity, to assist you in the presence of My Son."

Our next stop was a Norman church and then onto the astrological clock. It was then that I truly understood the significance of why Mario took of to the hill overlooking the city first.

This clock is fascinating and tells the history of Messina and receipt of the letter from Mary, the mother of Jesus. When the clock hits midday, church bells are struck by two ten foot bronze statues representing the heroines who saved Messina during the Sicilian Vespers war. Immediately following the chimes, a lion, representing the strength of the city, waves his flag, wags his tail, turns his head to face the piazza and roars three times. As if awakened by the mighty lion, a rooster, who represents awakening, flaps his wings, raises his head, and crows three times. As Ave Maria blares throughout the piazza, an angel appears bearing a letter for the Madonna, who is greeted by Saint Paul and a retinue of Messina ambassadors, each bowing in reverence as they pass. Wow! I just realized. This is not merely a bell tower, but a performance.

There was much more that Mario wanted to show us, but it was getting late and we needed to get back to the ship. Oh and before I forget, Mario provided us with complimentary water and soft drinks through out the tour. When we got to the pier, he gave us a wrapped gift of local sweets to be enjoyed onboard the ship at dinner. Talk about the topping on the cake.

DAY 3: AT SEA
Clocks were moved forward one hour so we had 1 hour less sleep after having a great time at the 70’s Disco Inferno Street Party the night before. But we made the best of it as we left Café Promenade after a late snack of ham and cheese sandwiches and cookies singing “Good Night Sweetheart” dad a dad a drum.

DAY 4: CHANIA, CRETE (GREECE)
This was a work day for me as I had clients to respond to and quotes to prepare. I was hoping to finish early, but by the time I finished everything I would have only had a half hour to explore before having to return to the ship. I guess I will just have to visit Chania, Greece on another trip.

However, I can tell you a little bit about the port. At the port in Crete, Royal Caribbean has a shuttle bus service that will take passengers to and from the ship to the city center for 3 Euro roundtrip. This is the one port that you can do on your own without a private tour.

DAY 5: KUSADASI, TURKEY (PROUNOUNCED KUSH-A-DACI)
Let me just start by saying that this ended up being our favorite port of the entire cruise!. We were scheduled to go to Ephesus, House of the Virgin Mary, St. Paul’s Basilica, Temple of Artemis, and lunch. I specifically requested that we not have the obligatory rug demonstration/sales pitch, but it worked out great because everyone elected to shop for leather and we had a delightful private fashion show with ended with some real nice purchases.

Our tour pick-up time was 8 AM, but we were off the ship a few minutes early. Our guide was Ahu, and she was fabulous! We had a very nice mini-van that was air-conditioned and very comfortable. Although the van sat 12 people, I am glad they we only had 10 as 12 people would have been very tight.

Our first stop was the House of the Virgin Mary because our guide wanted to beat the crowds. Along the way, she reminded us that Turkey is divided into two parts – Europe and Asia. The 7 churches of Asia Minor listed in the Book of Revelation Chapters 2 and 3 (Ephesus, Smyrna, Pergamum, Thyatira, Sardis, Philadelphia, and Laodicea) are all located on the Asia side of Turkey.

Ahu also explained the history of the house and left us with free time. No photos allowed, but when you come out there is a fresh mineral water fountain, which is said to have powerful healing properties. I had a little taste and it did taste like minerals! As you exit there is a long wall that is filled with bits of paper containing prayers. It sort of reminded me of the Wailing Wall in Jerusalem. I also people who were visibly weeping. At the end of the site, there is a little shopping area with a Post Office. This worked out well as members of our group wanted to send a postcard home.

We then stopped at Ephesus which was the longest part of our tour. We started at the top and worked our way down. Ephesus was amazing. We stopped at the Terraced Houses about half way through and oh my goodness, it was simply AMAZING! The mosaics were a wow factor, especially considering they were thousands of years old. And there are stacks of boxes full of marble pieces that archaeologists are trying to piece back together. Talk about a labor of love.

We then drove over to the Temple of Artemis. Not really much to see, and St. Paul’s Basilica was in the background (the ruins). By now it was time for lunch and once again, our guide was able to call ahead to let them know one member of our group were allergic to nuts and seeds and they accommodated her dietary restriction without a problem. We had salad, appetizers, local vegetable, main course (chicken kabobs, lamb meatballs, wonderful local homemade bread, and our choice of Turkish wine or cola. And yes they did have ice. Very filling and VERY good.

After lunch, we watched the carpet presentation and were shown how they get silk (which was very interesting), how they died the silk/wool, and then some women were weaving the carpets. Then they took us into the big room and started pulling out carpet after carpet. They were so beautiful, but you definitely needed money to purchase one. They served us an apple tea (tasted like hot apple juice) and then the wolves descended trying to sell the rugs. There was nothing under $200 and those were smaller than a door mat.

Several members of our group wanted to know about leather. Although I was at first apprehensive, I was assured that we would be given a private fashion show and there would be no high pressure sales. Let’s just say, I felt like we were part of the rich and famous given a fashion presentation by a Parisian couture designer. The show was classy and in very good taste and it did make us feel special. Another memorable experience that gives my clients bragging rights because they did something others onboard did not have. (Go Mary Go Mary)

Following that we were dropped off at the Bazaar, which was right next to the port. We had about an hour to shop before we had to be back onboard. It is here that you can wander the narrow streets and stock up on evil eyes, Turkish Delights, scarves and misc. souvenirs. It was a long day, but it was another wonderful day. I strongly recommend that anyone planning to do this to hire your own guide and driver. Ahu gave us amazing insight in to the significance of the ruins and told us detailed facts about them throughout the tour.

DAY 6: ATHENS
This is our final day of tours and boy are we tired. But everyone was a trooper and met at 7:30 that morning in the Promenade and walked right off the ship. Paul, our tour guide was waiting for us in a very comfortable air-conditioned van so off we went. Paul was fluent in English but talked very fast because although he was born in Greece, he grew up in New Jersey. In a word, the traffic was horrific so it was a good thing Paul was familiar with all the back streets and could maneuver through all the gridlock.

We decided to do the Acropolis first in order to beat the crowds. Let’s just say wise choice because there were only about 10 people in front of us when the gates opened at 8 am so we had the place practically to ourselves to explore at our leisure and without the crowds. (NOTE: a member of our group had her student card with her and was able to get in for half price)

Visiting the Acropolis, is like going up the Tour Eiffel, walking under the Brandenburger Tor or going inside the Great Pyramid. Highlights include the impressive Parthenon, the Propylaea, the Temple of Athena Nike and the Erechtheion, with its Porch of Maidens.

The Parthenon is the most famous surviving building of Ancient Greece and one of the most famous buildings in the world. It has stood atop the Acropolis of Athens for nearly 2,500 years and was built to give thanks to Athena, the city's patron goddess, for the salvation of Athens and Greece in the Persian Wars. The building was officially called the Temple of Athena. Throughout its long life, the Parthenon has functioned most importantly as a Greek temple, but has also been a treasury, a fortress, a church, and a mosque.

Although our group elected not to go, I would highly recommend a visit to the Acropolis Museum. Located at the foot of the Acropolis, the new museum displays statues, reliefs and artifacts from the Parthenon and other sites on the Acropolis. It really helps you to fully appreciate what you are seeing at the Acropolis.

On our way down from the Acropolis, we stopped at the Areopagus or Mars Hill. Mars Hill is a bare marble hill across from the entrance to the Acropolis. Its ancient marble steps can be slippery, especially in the rain so wear appropriate shoes! Near the base of the stairs is a bronze plaque with the Greek text of Paul's sermon about the identity of "the Unknown God" found in Acts 17. Some of us climbed to the top and it reminded me of our visit to the Mount of Olives. I could clearly visualize Paul preaching from this location.

As we were coming down from the Acropolis we saw most of the people from our ship going up and the line was long. So glad we had Paul and got there early. Next stop was the Temple of Zeus. Unlike the Acropolis, which has Greek columns, the Temple of Zeus has Corinthian columns which are much more ornate.

Our next stop was the Panathenaic Stadium which hosted the first modern Olympic Games in 1896. Reconstructed from the remains of the ancient Greek stadium, the Panathinaiko is the only major stadium in the world built entirely of white marble and one of the oldest stadiums in the world. It could seat about 80,000 spectators on 50 rows of marble steps and held 45,000 spectators. And it looks as good today as it did 115 year ago.

Next we drove up to the tallest hill in Athens which provided a marvelous overview of the city. Trust me when I say there is no way that the big buses could have gotten through those very narrow streets. The view, oh wow! It was simply amazing!! Well worth the drive.

Traffic was VERY bad in the city, but we were able to get to the Parliament building and witness the changing of the guards. Very ceremonial and the group got some nice pictures. As we drove around the city, we witnessed the police ticketing cabs and buses so we were happy to jump out at various sites and let Paul circle around and pick us up.

Time for lunch so Paul dropped us off at the Plaka after giving us a short walking tour. I had escorted a group last year on a Holy Land cruise which included Athens, so was familiar with the restaurants. Bill decided he did not want to go to the same restaurant so he picked one nearby. Well they spoke very little English and we spoke even less Greek, but they did have Pepsi and ice so my group was happy.

After a nice lunch everyone was tired so we elected to skip the Agora and head back to the ship. This is the second time I have missed seeing the Agora so note to self: Do not schedule tours after lunch if there is not time for a short nap on the van in between.

DAY 7: AT SEA
Clocks were moved back one hour so got back the hour we lost and had an extra hour to sleep.
Today was packing day and my day to have the salad bar lunch in the dining room. Yum Yum.

DEBARKATION
Debarkation: The ship docked back into Barcelona around 4:30am. Our group all had RCCL transfers and started departing at about 7:15 am. Since there was no customs or immigration, walking off the ship took no time at all. The only glitch was at the Delta pier check in. Let’s just say not enough staff and computers to print boarding passes. Enough said about that. We made it to the airport in time and our luggage was there.

FINAL THOUGHTS
This was a fantastic trip in every sense of the word. The sea was smooth as glass the entire cruise. Although our trip was exhausting, I would not have missed one minute of it for the world. Everyone was happy with our guides and based on the comments of those who took RCCL tours, I would higher recommend private drivers for this itinerary. Since large busses aren't allowed into the city centers, it was at least a half mile walk to most sites and you were limited to only 1-2 sites per excursion. Plus it was much nicer being in small groups rather than in a bus with 50-60 others.

Well that’s it. I hoped you enjoyed the review and would definitely recommend this trip to both young and young at heart. Lots of history and it will truly make the bible “come to life”. But Beware! There is a lot of walking on this trip so start getting exercising now.